Ralph Lauren Purple L
Ralph Lauren told an equestrian story for his fall Purple Label collection, which captivated with its jewel-toned velvets, nubby blanket plaids and printed silk neckties with saddle and riding cap motifs.
Lauren's clothes instantly telegraph a certain lifestyle: leisurely lunches at the manor after a morning ride in the bracing cold with cute army coats and hacking jackets; Cocktails by the fireplace on New Year's Eve in a rope-tipped, shawl-collared tuxedo jacket; Relax après-ski in a belted cashmere cardigan with a snowflake pattern.
The American designer's Milan showroom resembles his Madison Avenue headquarters, with its elegant salons, lavish flower arrangements and tuxedoed waiters carrying silver trays of champagne at 11am.
The season's tailoring juggernaut, Lauren and her design team also popularized trim velvet suits, handsome double-breasted tweed jackets and serious chairman-of-the-board pinstripes. Some jackets required more than 20 hours of handwork.
Yet the high-quality, refined shirt jackets and field jackets – many of which took their cues from bespoke plaids from plaid horse blankets – were more unexpected and eye-catching. Many of the looks — Stockmans-style — had velvet loafers underneath, embroidered with horse riders, the New York Yankees logo and fancy bullion crests, destined for warm climates where palm trees sprouted.
These are clothes for the man who has it all, demands the best, but doesn't take himself too seriously.
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