milan – Building a wardrobe for the new season in Milan just got easier.
Italian fashion has always been rooted in a well-made practical appeal and is not simple in keeping with the country’s lifestyle.
From the spring 2024 presentations, WWD rounded up 10 wardrobe essentials, from the perfect blazer and vest to throw-on-go outerwear pieces and feminine underpinnings.
Tank Top: Armorium
Georgia Gabriel’s Armory comes a little later. Now in its third season, it recently made its splash in New York with a dinner coordinated by Bergdorf Goodman. He made it clear from the start that his goal was to provide high-end wardrobe builders, working on the small details that mattered. Her fashion venture is rich, and it showed in her captivating spring collection.
She’s not interested in embracing quiet luxury as described on social media, but instead fills her collection with elevated basics for cool women who want to toy with fashion as much as dress for everyday work. The line featured plenty of cute options, from a cotton and nylon bouclé tank top worn with tonal pleated chino pants to a pajama style with a hint of chartreuse, a boxy shirt, and a borrowed cut. A men’s wardrobe.
Sartorial wear in Mannish fiction stood out for its austerity and versatility, with long blazers paired with fitted Bermuda pants, while raw-hemmed viscose crepe pencil skirts all paired with thick cotton cardigans to highlight craftsmanship.
Shirt: Quantico x Vital Barberis Canonico
A versatile piece that can easily go with business and cocktail looks, the shirt was reimagined by Quantico founders Chiara Apperdi, Consuelo Canducci and Chiara Cioli as part of their spring capsule with Vidale Barberis Canonico. As part of the Heritage & New Talents programme, the textile specialist continues to open doors for up-and-coming names.
Apperdi said the company’s textile archives revealed fabrics suitable for shirts that no one expected, including wool seersucker, a 21-micron Montecarlo hopsock wool. They boxy cut their feminine shirts with batwing sleeves in popsicle colors.
The Knit: Massimo Alba
Massimo Alba is the king of chic easy in Milan. Her soft, bohemian-inflected silhouettes in fabrics like „baby” backvale corduroy, lightweight cashmere and wool have long been a staple of stealth-wealth wardrobes around the world. Knitwear took center stage this season, with oversized fuzzy crewnecks in fuchsia, cream, acid green and navy, the latter of which she teamed with sketchy, camo shorts. Alpha also made fuzzy cardigan versions. They were worn over V-necks, belts and cropped trousers or pencil skirts. When she wasn’t messing around, the designer added her light touch to ribbed knits or cardigans in dark berry or teal hues. He paired some of those knits with paisley sarongs or laid-back men’s suits, some of which were belted at the waist.
For spring 2024, Yali founder Pia Zanardi followed up on her signature genderless blazer and day-to-night cropped vest silhouettes, exploring new fictions and adding popular fall velvet and corduroy options. Choose beautiful, color-blocked versions in double-faced ramie fabric to layer over t-shirts and hoodies, and style with everything from denim pants to yali’s new separates, bermuda pants and cute miniskirts.
The brand’s distinctive waist shape also translates into a striped poplin version that comes with matching boxer shorts in a collection made for summer uniforms. Pinardi captured it with beads, shells and vintage necklaces, and styled it with an off-the-shoulder logo sweater that would come in handy on the go or on those breezy summer nights.
The Sartorial Jacket: Slow down
Slower is rapidly gaining visibility, most recently with a new location on the second floor of La Rinascente Milan in the „new classics” menswear section with brands including Zegna, Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli. For spring, Slower pays homage to the art of Milanese tailoring, spinning many of its classic men’s fabrics and patterns into women’s styles. It worked in linen, cotton and tropical wool, all with an anti-wrinkle finish, elegant safari jackets and a line of double-breasted blazers with hand-stitched pleats and pocket pleats. There was also a shorts suit designed in a linen and cotton blend, a wink for those who wanted to stay cool. Colors were soft with cream, corn and indigo palettes.
Bomber jacket: Federica Tosi
Relying on her brand’s sleek aesthetic and approachable approach, Federica Tosi created a collection of wardrobe essentials with a twist for Spring 2024. In addition to his minimalist clothes and sharp tailoring, Tosi injects a glamorous spin with denim. Long skirts relied on asymmetrical slits and supple leather. A criss-cross embellishment also ran down the back of a trenchcoat, subtly changing its timeless design.
At outerwear specialist Herno, the overall look and ambition to expand the business towards non-core categories is in sharp focus after the season. Working a casual, urban look, the collection had some cool pieces, done in a versatile and subdued color palette of whites, browns and blacks.
A white denim dungaree worn with a boxy shirt underneath, the brand’s subtle monogram embroidered feminine eyelet frocks and pajama-style fluid silky pant and shirt combos are key to the brand’s fashion proposition. On the core outerwear front, oversized gabardine trenchcoats and light padded jackets stand out.
Cargo Pants: Sailor
A fashion-leaning reinvention of classical tropes was at the heart of Seafarer’s spring line, informed by ’60s glamor and defined by a sophisticated color palette. Viscose and bamboo fabrics were worked into slim, boxy-jacketed suits or collarless long blazers with flared pants, again showcasing the brand’s tailoring prowess.
Timeless slipdresses were reinterpreted with cloud-like watercolor-y prints, while more casual pieces included thick denim and cargo pants in a variety of fabrics, from cotton canvas to cotton satin.
The Linen Shorts: Leventi
Leventi’s spring collection is based on wardrobes designed with the quiet luxury customer in mind, with earthy nuances and a subtle color palette of pale blues and whites.
Paolo Giuntini, the brand’s co-founder and creative director of womenswear, said his ambition is to „infuse clothes with sophisticated elegance to women who don’t want to dress loud”. Consider jute, four-button, double-breasted blazers in earthy tones paired with relaxed linen shorts and knit underpinnings, or billowing sundresses made from Como and tunic dresses with Old England floral patterns.
For spring days, outerwear includes resort-nodding open-weave knit cardigans with comfortable linen pants and flowing shirts and perfectly tailored leather blazers.
The Little White dress: Mandu
Known for placing elevated everyday essentials at the heart of its wardrobe-building approach, Mande has created yet another versatile and polished collection aimed at covering a variety of occasions. To this end, Italian manufacturer Castor’s in-house brand showcased its flair for tailoring, ranging from cropped boxy proportions to mannish blazer jackets with big shoulders and fitted waists.
Aimed at chic women on the move, the brand introduced beautiful shirt dresses with cutouts and embellished with knots that can be worn from work to the weekend. In the same spirit, Mantou served up another highlight with a beautiful rendition of the Little Black Dress, whose essential silhouette was embellished with sinuous lasered cutouts for a graphic and feminine allure.
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