AP PHOTOS: Milan designers create a nest for next winter

milan — If there's one theme emerging at Milan Fashion Week, it's snuggling up, snuggling up, and enveloping one's self in comforting clothes.

No one mentions the wars and political divisions that are tearing the world apart, but if they aren't at the forefront of designers' minds, it's clear that the drive for self-preservation is a great part of the Zeitgeist.

Here are some highlights from the mostly womenswear previews for Fall-Winter 2024-25 on Thursday, the second day of Milan Fashion Week:

Max Mara has the silhouette for next cold weather.

Creative director Ian Griffiths' mood board included silken teddies, belle époque'-inspired bowler coats and photographs of French novelist Colette, whose spare style the British designer said inspired the collection's simplicity.

Griffiths chose a palette of midnight blue, black and gray monochromes, best to find rich silhouettes of sweeping bowl coats defined by elegant blouses like bomber jackets, trousers and skirts, sarong knots. Short coats, kimono-inspired sleeves, soft pleats, wide-leg trousers and leg-baring wool daytime rompers detail the back.

A knitted cummerbund worn with a thin belt is a must-have accessory to define the waistline in any look. Evening wear had a hint of dark crystal embellishment, with a practicality that translated into day. The bag of the season was a silly cross-body with metal buckles.

Griffiths said he returned to the „bowl, cocoon shapes” inspired by the 1910s and 1920s, which he first experimented with at the university in the mid-1980s. „You can always come back for anything. If not next season, you can come back in 40 years. Every time it's different,'' Griffiths said backstage.

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